my technique sucks

The sun is out the tides are ok and, what's this? a real swell down at Hells Mouth.

Clean sets with no wind and a bright sunny day greet me as I get down there.

Unfortunately before this I had to run the gammut of August Abersoch with myriad tossers wandering all over the place. You know how it is; the waves will wait, in fact it won't really be getting any better for another half hour or so, but you just have to get there....now! The last mile or so is sheer frustration with the expectation levels being ramped up, usually to be followed with a degree of disappointment as you set eyes on the onshore mush.

But not today! clean 3 footers breaking onto a sandy shore with not too many out... a few empty peaks along the beach.

Hmm. Mat or longboard?

I took both.

A few waves on the longboard told me all I needed to know. No snap in the legs anymore. Despite a couple of decent waves, by the time I had clambered to my feet it was time to get off the wave. I need a longer longboard - something around 11' rather than the 9'3" Hobie I have had for years.

So it was out with the mat, and no matter what I did I could'nt get the thing to go. air out - no; more air in - no. get in early- forget it; get in late - ditto.
I changed my fins - no change in the water.

In the end I gave up and took one of the outside waves in - all 3' of it. This at least provided me with a decent left, but the mat just would'nt go today.

Or maybe it did, but I did'nt.