I seemed to stumble across something interesting today. An addition to the getting under waves repetoir.
Surfmatt and I were surfing in fairly heavy waves with sneaker sets dumping on your head every now and then. I've always been one to just duckdive and hang on tight but we had a stonking set come through and I was properly for the chop! I went to duckdive as normal but, instinctively, I pushed down for the duckdive and then rolled over the nose of the mat and switched to a full 4x4 (arms and legs) bear hug.
Basically, as the lip hit me, I was head down, arse up and rolling forwards in a somersault with my arms and legs wrapped around the mat. I was expaecting to go through the wash but to my surprise I came up almost straight away behind the wave!
I wouldn't do this all the time as you have to pfaff about with getting back on the mat and stuff but last second when a thick, pitching dumper is about to cut you in two? Definately the way forward.
I remember doing a "duckwrap" in earlier life.Can still remeber it in clear detail.Turtle Recall...
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